Thursday, May 29, 2014

Multi-cultural day

I volunteered to help out with a multi-cultural day that ISDD (the law school we share a building with) was hosting. Normally the ISDD students from abroad will give speeches and prepare activities representing their country, so this year they decided to invite an American student from CIEE to participate. To be honest it was a lot more work than I had hoped for, especially because my partner got sick and I had to plan it on my own. In the end though it was a really fun day. 

For my speech I had planned a nice little cultural blurb about the States and pop culture and the media, only to find out that every other country had just prepared a list of statistics about the countries geography and political system. They liked my speech anyway though. The activity I planned was bingo, and it was pretty hilarious because everyone got super into it. I started withe rule where you only had to get a row of words to win. They seemed to get that but then I switched to saying that you had to get the whole board to win, but they kept shouting bingo after only getting a row and running up to me yelling "i want a fish!" (the prize for the winner was a fish - not my idea). 

The best part of the night though was the Sabar. I had already been to one sabar and knew that it was an intense circle of drumming and dancing. I also knew that they were gonna make me dance. So before the Sabar me and a friend went to get smoothies before the inevitable humiliation. I came back with the full anticipation of a huge party of dancing, only to walk into a room of 5 Senegalese students playing scrabble. Probably the last thing on earth I would have expected, but I was quite pleased I didn't have to dance. When I asked about the Sabar he said "oh well start setting up soon." A perfect example of Senegalese time - it was 7:30 and the Sabar was supposed to start at 6:00. 


Second to the left is Danny, the ISDD president who planned the event and who I collaborated with.

One last visit to Papa's

I had to visit one more time before heading home. This time though I brought a sufficient number of friends for papa to be satisfied. 


I also met Papa's brother, who I had talked with a couple of times on skype while at his house but didn't get to meet until now because he works in Japan. He came home to visit for two weeks and I managed to see him just before he left to go back. I also took a picture of every single other member of papa's family, which was a lot - of course they all came out again to say good bye to me. Samba's grandma gave me a wonderful prayer before I left where she basically told me over and over again what a wonderful family I have, and so I told her the same.



Malang's house

I met Malang through a friend of a friend of my brother. For such a small connection, he became my best Senegalese friend outside of my family. His house also became my favorite hang out spot. There's nothing really special there, its just a small apartment where he and his friends hang out, but me and my friend Emily always had the greatest time teaching them english, drinking attaya and learning how to play the guitar. We never hung out at his house without laughing hysterically at something.

 

This was probably due to the fact that his friends were all such characters - it was impossible to be bored at his house. For example, this is a picture of Ousman. This was one of like 20 photos I took of him posing with different accessories and facial expressions. He also loved to wear sparkly pants and was always putting on cologne. 


Malang was also the manager of a band called Sur L'arbre, which two girls from CIEE ended up being apart of. It was a great connection to have though cause we always knew when and where concerts would be.


Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Wolof

Wolof is a very interesting language. When I first came here my host family and friends all told me “you gotta learn Wolof, it’s so easy.” In fact, it is kind of easier. The grammar is really way simpler than French, it’s just that French is easier to learn from my perspective because the grammar is more similar to English than Wolof grammar is.

For starters, Wolof has no adjectives. Anything that would be an adjective in English is a verb in Wolof. For example, “muus” is the verb for “to be intelligent” and “tayal” is the verb for “to be lazy.” Because of this, there is no verb “to be” in Wolof. If you want to say you are somewhere, you use the word “nekk” meaning “to be located.” The whole language is simplified to eliminate the most commonly used verb in the English and French language.

Another simplification is that verbs don’t conjugate. When you are fluent in a language, conjugating verbs is no big deal. But when you are learning a language, memorizing chow to conjugate verbs, especially with so many irregulars, is a huge pain and I am thankful without it.

There are some parts of Wolof that are more complicated than English and French though. For example, there three different types of pronouns you use depending on where you want to put the emphasis on in the sentence. In English, you could say “I like cats” as a simple informative statement. But if someone asked you “what animal do you like?” you would say “I like cats.” The sentence is the same you just change your intonation to emphasize the object in the sentence. If some asked “how do you feel about cats?” you would respond “I like cats.” In Wolof, a different pronoun would be used in each of those three sentences. And it gets even more complicated than that – if you are talking about your habitual day you use one time of pronoun, if you are talking about something as a condition you use a different kind of pronoun, if you are presenting yourself or a friend you use a different kind of pronoun, etc. And to top it off, there are static verbs and active verbs, and you use different pronouns for each type. So the lack of complication in verb conjugations is made up in the pronoun part of the language. I still think it is simpler than French, but because I am used to verb conjugations and not pronoun conjugations, I find the French grammar easier to get used to.

Another interesting aspect of Wolof is perhaps more of a cultural difference than a language difference. In the US, when someone asks how you are you always say “I’m good” and if someone asks how school is going  or how your day has been, you usually say “good” and if someone asks if you’re having fun you say “yes.” In Senegal, these responses are far too positive. If someone asks if you’re having fun you are supposed to say “only a little.” In the village my Peace Corps volunteer told me that saying you is having fun is a sign that you are showing off your wealth. In Dakar people don’t necessarily make that assumption, but they still always respond with “only a little” because as my Wolof professor puts it “it is rare that someone is completely and totally happy.”  The answer to “how are you” is “I’m here only,” which is really a quite cynical view of your life status. Even if they ask “how is your family” the correct response is “they’re there.” If someone asks you how your day has been or how school is you normally say the equivalent of “it’s going” or “it’s been alright.” The most positive response that is acceptable to give is “I’m on top of things.”

There are also some words in Wolof that just don’t exist. For example, the word cute doesn’t exist, so they just use the French word. One really interesting one is that the word sad doesn’t exist in Wolof. There multiple ways of saying “I am sad,” in Wolof, such as “my heart is not at ease.” But there is no direct word for it.  Also instead of saying “best friend” in Wolof, they say “my friend of the same nose,” which I think is really cute. Also the word for head is Bop in Wolof, which is also really cute. And the word for cat is Mousse, which is quite a coincidence because of mom’s cat named Moose.

The language used to talk about family also has some differences. For example, there is a different word for your aunt on your dad’s side and your aunt on your mom’s side. My Wolof professor said that is because those two people have different roles in your life, which shows the influence of cultural differences between Senegal and the States because family roles are much more important in Senegal. Also, a girl will call her brother’s wife her wife, rather than a sister in law. This is interesting because being homosexual is not only unaccepted in Senegal but illegal, so a girl calling someone their “wife” would not lead people to assume they are married to another girl because that is not a part of their culture (especially in the villages). Another wording difference is that there are two words for family. The most commonly used is “wa ker” which means everyone you are even remotely related to. The second “mbokk” refers more to the people who depend on you, as my Wolof professor puts it. This normally means kids, but it could also mean the people you support financially because in Senegal if you have a job and your siblings don’t, it is your responsibility to financially support all of your siblings and their families. There is no word that directly translates to “immediate family” because in Senegal people rarely live with just their immediate family, they live with anyone who is remotely related to them who lives in the same city. That is why my family is so big – most of the people living there are not just my mom’s kids, but also her nieces and nephews that live in Dakar for school or work.

Names also have some cultural differences. There are a lot of people in Senegal named “papa” and “mama” and I always just assumed that those were just Senegalese names, since the word for mom and dad are completely different in Wolof. As it turns out, it is tradition that if you are named after your granddad you are called “papa” and if you are named after your granda you are called “mama.” Another interesting thing is that last names in Dakar repeat a lot. For example, my family is a “Diop” which is a very common last name, and there are also a lot of “faye’s” and “Sene’s.” Each of the last names has some historical connection with a certain village/ethnicity in Senegal. For example, Faye is a Pular name. In Senegal they have something called “joking cousins,” which is where two people who have a certain pair of last names are cousins meaning they are immediately allies. For example, “Diop” and “Ndaiye” are joking cousin names, so if I met someone named Ndayie they would get really excited because we were now like family. Another interesting fact is that when kids are called by their parents, the appropriate response is the shout their last names. So if mom or dad called to me from upstairs, rather than responding with “yeah” I would say “Korein”

My last note about Wolof is the fact that it is not a written but a spoken language. All schools in Senegal are either French or in some rare cases another language like English or Spanish, but kids never learn how to read or write Wolof, even if it is their first language. This is a very weird phenomenon for me, the idea of speaking English fluently but knowing how to read and write in only French. When I asked my brother to help me with Wolof homework, he had a harder time reading the Wolof than I did, just because I actually learned how to spell the words in Wolof while he never did. It also makes spelling very interesting. Non one ever knows how to spell anything in Wolof - people will always just have to sound things out if they want to write it cause they never learned how to spell even the most common words. I’ve even seen billboards that have spelled things wrong in Wolof. This concept would make for a good potential thesis project, because there are many studies already about the representation of language in people’s heads, and I think purely oral languages would be a good addition to this field.  Plus that would allow me to get a grant to go back to Senegal, which would be awesome. 

Sine Saloun

For our last mini travel vacation all of us took a Pirog to an Island in Sine Saloun called Mar Lodj.


Victoria's really cute kids came with us.


We took a Charrett ride through the village. At one point about 50 kids randomly started chasing us yelling "cadeau" which means "gift"


Then we watched a wrestling match. It started 4 hours late (typical) so we were waiting around for a while, but it was worth it. The matches were super intense and everyone in the village was there. The kids were also super friendly and outgoing and wanted to play with us the whole time. At one point the wrestling match just randomly went into overdrive and everyone just started cheering super loud and dancing and people were running through the rink and giving money to the drummers. It was crazy but so fun to watch.


We also met with a peace corps volunteer who was about to finish her two years. She worked with the village women to create their own business where they sold things like jam and batik, like in the picture.


My friend tried to climb a palm tree and did really well for her first attempt (I couldn't even get my arms around it)


But she was still showed up by a local senegalese boy


On the way home we stopped to look at the biggest Baobob tree in west africa.


We even got to go inside it. It smelled bad but was really cool to see. Especially cause there were hundreds of bats hanging from the ceiling which was crazy cool.



Wednesday, April 30, 2014

More on Arame Yvone

Here are some more great Arame Yvone moments:

She kept asking me if she could use my camera and my phone and I kept saying no, so she asked for less valuable things like my floss and toothbrush. Finally I said she could have a squirt of hand santitizer, which she was really excited about. Her response was: "Oh Emma, you are very tolerant!"

We went for a run, which is always a fun experience with Arame Yvone because she will continuously talk the whole time, usually about how strong we're gonna get because we're exercising. She also will often ask for a break, and then when we stop tell me that we can't stop we have to keep running. So then I make her stop to catch her breath, and then she gets mad at me and says "don't lie to me Emma, I know you want to run." One time we ran to the monument and climbed the stairs so we could see all of dakar. When I said it was time to go she took a deep breath and said "I couldn't possibly. How could I ever leave this view!"

My favorite moment was one morning at 7 am when I dragged myself out of bed and left my room to go to the bathroom. Arame Yvone was in the hallway. I was wearing PJs and had bed head and said bonjour to her in a really sleep voice, and she responded "Emma you are so pretty. When you sleep, you sleep profoundly." This was definitely not a true statement, particularly at that moment in time, but I appreciated the compliment none the less.

Back to St. Louis and Lampoul

Two weekends ago the environment class went on a field trip to St. Louis and Lampoul, but a lot of people not in the class, like me, tagged along. In St. Louis we visited a damn and learned about all of its environmental benefits and downsides.


The story of this plant is pretty cool. I forget most of the details, but I think the plant is causing a lot of problems for the environment, so this Senegalese women found out how to the use the plant to make fuel and is making a huge difference for the entire city while also making quite a profit.


We crossed the boarder and entered Mauritania! We were only there for about 5 minutes, but I'm still going to tell everyone I've been to Mauritania.


The we re-took the lovely off road adventure to the desert.


The other truck got stuck in the sand.



And they had this cute little dinner tent set up where they made us a really really good Yassa Poulet, which is one of my favorite dinners here. It is chicken with rice and this really good sauteed onion sauce.

And of course I rode a camel again :)


And then at night we made a camp fire and told riddles and jokes which was really fun.


The next day we woke up early for the sunset, but it was so foggy that we could barely even see the sun, let alone the sun set sky it usually lights up. We also went on a surprise 5 km hike through the desert to the beach. He told us it would be about 2 kilometers there and back, but that was not at all the case. It wouldn't have been too bad but my flip flop broke. It was fine for the deserty parts because you don't need shoes for sand anyway, but then the terrain turned to spiky plants and cactuses, like shown below, which was not fun. We came up with an inventive way to fix my shoe with a hair tie, but it was still hard to walk fast. When we reached a village, the professor literally bought the shoes off of a random woman in the village. I felt really bad at first, but the woman was very happy to sell her shoes and I realized we were probably paying way more for them than she bought them for anyways.

Given that the hike was so much longer than we thought, the beach was a perfect break to relax and cool down.